Door Dings & Parking-Lot Dents
The shopping-cart special. Round, shallow dents from doors, carts, and stray baseballs are the bread and butter of PDR — most are gone in under an hour with zero trace.
Paintless Dent Repair — Seabrook, Texas
Dents gone.Paint
Rocket Dent Co. removes door dings, creases, and hail damage by working the metal back to its original shape — no filler, no sanding, no respray. All repairs are done at our shop in Seabrook, serving drivers from across the Bay Area.
Start with the estimator: send the guided photos, get a real price range on the spot — and if the damage isn't a paintless job, it will tell you that honestly instead.
AI Photo Estimator
Your price in about a minute — before you talk to anyone. Love it? Book the appointment right here.
Send the guided photos
Six photos: five of the damage, plus your VIN sticker. They let the estimator judge size, depth, and paint accurately — and confirm the exact vehicle and paint code. That's what keeps the price honest. Study the examples first, then tap each row to add that shot. Please keep your license plate out of every photo — the VIN sticker is all we need.
How to take them — examples
Each example matches the numbered upload below. Match the framing, not the car. Shoot in daylight, wipe the panel clean first, tap the dent on your screen to focus, and use no filters.
Example 1 · Whole panel
Stand back — get the whole panel in frame
Do: Step back 6–8 feet so the entire door, hood, or fender — edge to edge — is in the shot, like this truck's full side. This shows where the dent sits on the panel. Don't crop the panel or shoot only the dent.
Example 2 · Close-up + scale
Fill the frame — and add a coin for scale
Do: Move in to 12–18 inches, dent centered and filling the frame, with a quarter flat against the panel right beside it, exactly like this. The coin is how true size is judged — without it, a 1″ ding and a 4″ dent look identical. This example also shows a deep, sharp-centered dent — send yours even if it looks worse than a door ding.
Example 3 · Angled reflection
Shoot at 45° — let the reflection cross the dent
Do: Stand at about a 45° angle so light, a fence, or building lines reflect across the dent. See how the straight lines bend and swirl where they cross the damage here? That bend is the depth — it's the single most useful photo of the set. A straight-on shot hides this completely.
Example 4 · Opposite angle
Same dent, from the other direction
Do: Walk to the other side of the dent and repeat the angled shot looking back the opposite way. The pair confirms the dent's true shape and edges — a crease that runs further than it first looks will show up here.
Example 5 · Paint — warning example
Get close on the paint — this is what cracked looks like
Do: Zoom right into the paint in the center of the dent. Intact paint looks smooth, like Example 2. If yours looks like this — cracked, flaking, or chipped through — it is not a PDR job and needs repainting. Send the photo anyway: we'd rather tell you honestly than quote a price that can't be real.
Example 6 · VIN sticker — new
Open the driver door — sticker is on the jamb
Do: Open the driver's door and find the white certification / VIN sticker on the door jamb (the pillar the door latches to), like this one. Shoot it straight-on, close enough to fill the frame, with every line readable — no angle, no glare, no flash washout. It confirms your year, make, model, and paint code so the estimate is for your car, not a guess.
Good-photo checklist: daylight or bright shade · panel wiped clean · dent tapped-to-focus and sharp, not blurry · one dent per set of photos · for the optional video, pan slowly across the dent for 5–10 seconds so the reflection moves — never shoot the video first and skip the stills. Keep your license plate out of every photo — the VIN sticker is all we need to identify the vehicle, and your plate number is never needed.
0 of 6 photos. All six gives the most accurate estimate — the first three damage shots plus the VIN sticker are the minimum to continue.
What the photos show
Confirm these details — they're what the estimate is calculated from.
Vehicle
Panel with the dent
Reading your photos…
- Reading the VIN sticker — year, model & paint code
- Measuring the dent against the panel
- Tracing how the reflection bends — depth check
- Inspecting the paint in and around the dent
- Checking PDR eligibility
- Pricing against industry-standard retail ranges
Preliminary Starting Estimate
Preliminary Starting Estimate — final price confirmed by Adam prior to repair. Based on industry-standard retail PDR pricing. Typical time: 1–3 hours at our shop.
We'll email your estimate to you — and Adam will follow up within 48 hours if you'd like him to. Your photos are kept for 30 days so he can price it by hand if needed.
Your email
Your name (optional)
Honest answer: this isn't a PDR job.
Paintless repair only works when the metal can be moved without disturbing the finish.
What it needs instead: conventional body-shop repair — the panel straightened, then primed and repainted. We won't quote you a paintless price for a job paintless can't finish.
Not so fast? Have Adam double-check.
The AI reads photos — Adam reads metal. If you think it might still be a paintless job, send the request anyway and Adam will look at the photos himself and call you. He'll never charge for a job paintless can't finish.
Request appointment review
Your estimate: $275 – $500 — the range we'll confirm in person for this dent.
Adam will double-check this one himself. The AI judged it not a PDR job — send the request and Adam will look at your photos and call you with the honest answer.
Your name *
Mobile phone *
Email (recommended — so Adam can send your confirmation)
Preferred time window
Anything else? (how it happened, timing, access…)
Adam will contact you by phone, text, or email about this request.
✓ Request received
Adam will review your photos and text/call you by end of day today to confirm your price and bay time.
Your request ID: —
Keep this number — it helps Adam find your request fast.
Your photos and estimate are saved with your request. If you don't hear from Adam within the time above, email [email protected] with your request ID.
No paint. Ever.The finish on your car stays the one it left the factory with.
Most jobs: 1–3 hoursSmall dings often under an hour — done at our Seabrook shop.
Priced by photoSix guided photos — five damage angles plus your VIN sticker — and an optional video. Instant estimate before anyone calls you.
Honest screenIf a dent isn't right for PDR, we'll tell you straight — no charge for the look.
What we fix
Every dent has
a way back
If the paint is intact, the metal usually remembers its shape. Our job is to persuade it back — slowly, precisely, and without touching the finish.
Most common
Hail Damage
Gulf Coast storms can pepper a hood, roof, and trunk in minutes. We count and map every hit, work panel by panel, and handle insurance documentation if you're filing a claim.
Creases & Body Lines
The hard ones — dents that cross a stamped body line or fold into a crease. They take patience and the right leverage, and they're where a background in paint & body earns its keep.
Larger & Complex Dents
Bigger damage isn't automatically body-shop damage. If the paint isn't cracked and the metal isn't stretched past its limit, glue-pull and push techniques can still save the panel.
Lease Return & Resale Prep
Dealerships charge hundreds per panel at lease turn-in. Fix the dings first, keep the difference. Also ideal before selling or trading in — a clean panel photographs like a newer car.
Aluminum & EV Panels
Aluminum has no memory and fights back harder than steel — it needs a lighter touch and more time. We repair aluminum hoods, doors, and Tesla panels with the right technique.
The craft
Metalwork, not magic
PDR is exactly what it sounds like when you say it plainly: a technician reads the dent under a striped light board, then makes hundreds of tiny, controlled pushes from behind the panel until the reflection runs straight again.
⇔
Drag the handle. Illustration of a door dent under repair light — the warped highlight on the left is how a dent actually shows up to a technician: as a reflection that won't run straight.
1
Read the metal
Under the light board, the reflection tells the truth: where the low spot sits, how deep it runs, whether the metal is stretched, and whether the paint can take the repair.
2
Work from behind
Steel rods reach behind the panel through factory access points. When there's no access, glue tabs pull from the outside instead. Either way — pressure in tiny increments, never one big push.
3
Chase the reflection
High spots get tapped down, lows get lifted, and the board moves around the panel until the lines run unbroken from every angle. That's the finish line: a reflection with no story to tell.
4
The honest check
Some damage shouldn't be PDR'd — cracked paint, stretched metal, sharp folds at a panel edge. If yours is one of those, we'll say so up front and point you the right way.
Retail pricing
Industry-standard
prices, on the table
Our estimator prices from published industry-standard retail PDR ranges — the same bands reputable shops across the country charge from. No mystery, no phone-call-first games.
| Damage | Typical | Retail range |
|---|---|---|
| Standard door ding | Parking-lot tap | $197 – $250+ |
| Medium dent | 1″ – 4″ | $275 – $500+ |
| Crease / body-line dent | Across a stamped line | $225 – $600+ |
| Large / complex damage | Over 4″, stretched | From $500+ |
| Hail damage | Priced by the storm | From $1,500 |
Ranges are industry-standard retail for paintless repair with the paint intact. Hail is priced per vehicle after a panel-by-panel count. Every estimate is confirmed in person before work begins — the number we confirm is the number you pay.
How the estimator prices
The AI photo estimator at the top of this page works from these same retail bands, adjusted the way the industry adjusts them:
Dent on a body line +25%
Aluminum panel +25%
Deep dent +35%
It also screens for the two things that disqualify a dent from paintless repair — cracked paint and a sharp, folded crease — and tells you straight when a job belongs at a conventional body shop instead of quoting you a price that can't be real.
Run the AI Photo Estimator ↑Why paintless
PDR vs. the body shop
Conventional repair has its place — collision damage, cracked paint, bent structure. But for a dent with intact paint, it solves the problem by creating three new ones.
Rocket Dent Co. — PDR
The metal goes back
- ✓Factory paint preserved — no color-match gamble, no blend lines, nothing to fade differently in the Texas sun.
- ✓Hours, not days — most repairs finished the same day at our shop. No rental car, no week-long body-shop queue.
- ✓Value stays intact — original panels and original finish are what appraisers and buyers want to see.
- ✓Usually costs less — no paint, no materials, no panel R&R labor stacked on top.
Conventional body shop
The panel gets refinished
- —Grind, fill, sand, prime, paint, blend into the next panel. Your factory finish is gone for good.
- —Typically 3–7 days without the car, plus drop-off, pickup, and a rental.
- —Repainted panels invite questions at resale and trade-in — and repaint can show on history reports.
- —Often runs 2–3× the cost of PDR for the same dent, before the deductible conversation starts.
The work
Straight reflections
are the portfolio
A finished PDR panel doesn't look repaired — it looks like nothing ever happened. That's the whole point, and it's why the light board, not the camera, is the real judge.
Service area
Born on the bay.
Shop in Seabrook.
Rocket Dent Co. works out of our shop in Seabrook, Texas — a few minutes from NASA, the Kemah Boardwalk, and about ten thousand marina parking lots full of door dings. All repairs are done at the shop; drivers bring their cars to us from across the Bay Area:
Seabrook — shop locationKemahLeague CityWebsterClear LakeNassau BayEl LagoTaylor Lake VillageFriendswoodDickinsonLa PortePasadena
Outside the list but nearby? You're still welcome at the shop — hail work and multi-car jobs are well worth the drive.
01
Send photos
Run the AI estimator at the top of this page — six guided photos (five damage angles plus your VIN sticker), plus an optional panning video, gets you an instant price range.
02
Get a flat quote
One number, agreed up front. If the dent isn't a PDR candidate, you hear that instead — straight, and free.
03
Bring it to the shop
Bring the car to our Seabrook shop at your appointment time. Most single dents take 1–3 hours.
04
Light check together
We walk the panel with the light board before you pay. If the reflection isn't straight, the job isn't done.
Straight answers
Questions every
customer asks
Can any dent be fixed paintless?
No — and anyone who says yes is selling you something. PDR needs the paint intact and the metal not stretched past its limit. Sharp folds on a panel edge, cracked or chipped paint, and previous filler work usually mean conventional repair. Send photos and we'll screen it honestly, free.
How long does a repair take?
A typical door ding takes 30–60 minutes. Larger dents and creases run 2–4 hours. A hail-damaged vehicle is usually a full day, sometimes two for heavy counts. All repairs are done at our shop in Seabrook — most small jobs are finished the same day you drop the car off.
Where is the work done?
At our shop in Seabrook. We're a shop-based business, not a mobile service — you book an appointment, bring the car in, and the repair is done there under proper PDR lighting, which is how the finish gets checked properly from every angle.
Will the dent come back?
No. PDR restores the metal to its original shape — it's not filled, covered, or hidden. Once the panel is back, it stays back, with the same strength and finish it had before the dent.
Does PDR work on aluminum and Teslas?
Yes. Aluminum panels (common on trucks, and standard across much of the Tesla lineup) are stiffer and have no “memory,” so they take more time and a lighter touch — that's why aluminum carries a labor modifier. The result is the same: factory finish preserved.
Should I file an insurance claim for hail?
Often, yes — hail falls under comprehensive coverage, which typically doesn't penalize you like a collision claim. We can document the damage count panel by panel for your adjuster and work within the claim. For a handful of dings, paying out of pocket usually beats the deductible.
What do you need from me for a quote?
Photos — the estimator at the top of this page walks you through all six with examples: the whole panel, a close-up with a coin for scale, an angled reflection shot, the opposite angle, a paint close-up, and your VIN sticker from the driver door jamb. Daylight or bright shade, panel wiped clean. The VIN sticker confirms the year, make, model, and paint code, so you don't have to type any of it.
What if the paint is already damaged?
Then PDR alone won't finish the job — but it can still help. Straightening the metal first (“push to paint”) means the body shop uses far less filler and keeps more of your original panel. Ask and we'll tell you if that route makes sense for your dent.
Get started
Send the dent.
Fill this in and it builds your quote request into one clean message — copy it into a text or email, and attach your photos there. Whole panel, close-up with a coin, 45° angle, opposite angle, paint close-up, and the VIN sticker from the driver door jamb. That's what we need to price it exactly.
Rocket Dent Co. LLC · Seabrook, Texas
Instagram — @rocketdentco
rocketdentco.com
Email — [email protected]
Attach your guided photos when you send it — that's what turns this into an exact price.